How I Trim Lavender in Spring

Spring is when I give my lavender its first proper cut of the year. Once I see fresh green growth coming in at the base, I know it’s time to get to work. Start With What’s Alive

I don’t cut into the old woody part of the plant. Lavender doesn’t grow back well from that. I stay just above it, where the stems are still soft and green. From there, I leave 5 inches of green on the plant and cut off everything else. Enough to keep the plant compact and encourage new shoots.

Keeping the Shape

I keep every plant in a rounded, gumdrop shape. Not flat on top, not boxy. Just a soft dome.

There’s a practical reason for this, especially in places that see snow. A rounded plant lets snow settle around it instead of piling up on top and snapping stems. Even if you don’t deal with snow often, the shape still helps keep the plant balanced and less prone to splitting. It also allows light to reach more evenly across the plant, which makes for better, fuller growth.

Let It Breathe One thing I’ve learned over the years is that lavender doesn’t like to feel crowded. While trimming, I make small adjustments to open up the center a bit. Not hollowing it out, just easing any tight spots where stems are packed too close together. Make sure that the plane next to it is not touching it. Good airflow helps keep moisture from sitting too long, which can lead to rot, especially in humid spells.

When to Do It

Spring trimming should happen after the risk of hard frost has passed, but early enough that the plant can push out new growth before the heat settles in. Around here, I watch the plant more than the calendar. If it’s actively growing, it’s ready. I’ve found that regular, simple trimming works better than trying to fix things later. A quick cut in spring, a light one in fall, and the plant keeps its form without much trouble.