Practical Gardening in Real Soil: Methods & Approach
- Vivian Nielsen
- Jul 2
- 3 min read
Most people start with containers, raised beds, or bags of potting mix. Those methods work, especially in tight spaces. But if you have a piece of land, even a modest one, planting directly in the ground opens up different possibilities. It asks for more patience, but it also gives you a deeper relationship with the soil under your feet.
At Garden Gate Lavender, we’ve been working the same land for years. We've seen how lavender and other herbs respond when planted straight into the earth. This blog is about that process - the practical side of gardening in the ground. The kind you don’t often see in polished tutorials.
1. Begin with the Soil

You can start digging any day. But planting without knowing your soil first is a fast way to run into problems later.
Every soil type has its own structure. Sand drains fast. Clay holds water too long. Loam is balanced but rare. You won’t know where yours stands until you test it. A basic soil test - texture, pH, drainage isn’t expensive and tells you exactly what you’re working with. It helps you avoid second-guessing and overcorrecting later.
Slightly alkaline, well-draining soil is essential. If your soil holds water after a rain, lavender will struggle.
Start there. Let the soil tell you what needs adjustment. 2. Choose Methods That Fit the Land Not every technique makes sense for every piece of ground. We’ve tested a few and found that working with your landscape always gives better results than forcing it into a system.
3. Mounding for Drainage

If your soil tends to stay wet, try mounding soil into long, low rows. This lifts the root zone without needing wooden beds or borders. It's a simple fix that works well in flat areas with poor drainage.
4. Mulching the Right Way

Use mulch for what it does, not how it looks. With lavender, we use landscape fabrics instead of mulch, as we have found mulch holds so much moisture that the plant gets disease and rots. It reflects heat, keeps moisture levels stable, and reduces root rot. Organic mulches like straw or bark hold more moisture, which isn’t always helpful for herbs.
5. Spacing Space your plants with airflow in mind. It prevents mold and fungal issues. Lavender especially needs room - don’t underestimate how wide it gets. Space your lavender plants 3 ft. apart.
6. Feeding the Soil, Not Just the Plant In-ground gardening asks for a slower pace when it comes to feeding. Lavender doesn’t like rich, nitrogen-heavy soil. Overfeeding results in lots of green growth, but less fragrance and weaker structure.
A handful of slow-release amendments - bone meal, rock phosphate, once or twice a year is often enough. The goal is to create soil that supports long-term health, not to push fast growth.
7. Tools You don’t need ten tools. You need the right ones.
A sharp garden fork, a sturdy hoe, a soil knife, and a reliable wheelbarrow go further than most gadget sets. If it’s not built to last, it won’t make it through more than one season in real soil. Clean your tools. Oil the handles. Use them like they matter, because they do.
8. Timing We don’t plant because it’s April. We plant when the soil is workable. If you pick up a handful and it sticks together in heavy clumps, wait. If it crumbles easily in your hand, it’s ready.
This timing can change year to year. Pay attention to the soil’s texture and warmth. There’s no substitute for walking your garden and checking it by feel.
9. Pay Attention to the Animals
On our farm, the animals are part of the system. Chickens scratch and break up the surface soil. If you have sheep, you can have them manage the grass line without disturbing the root zones. Bees tell us when the lavender’s timing is off. You don’t need livestock to do this, but it helps to watch the signs. Worms, beetles, birds, even ants - if they’re active, your soil is alive. If they’re missing, something’s off.
Real gardening takes time to learn. Not all of it is technical - some of it is observation. That part can’t be rushed.
Soil has memory. How you treat it now affects what it gives back later.
Failure isn't wasted effort. A season that doesn’t go well still teaches you something. It gives you a better foundation for the next.
If you're gardening directly in the ground, you're doing more than just planting. You're joining into a rhythm with the land that can’t be bought in a bag or built with boards.
It’s slower. Sometimes messier. But it’s real. And it works. From our rows to yours, Garden Gate Lavender
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